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| Sophie's
Steakhouse Fulham Road 020 7352 0088 Gloucester Road |
Lunch £26 ($40) |
Looking for somewhere to brunch on New Year's Day, we passed by a
few early choices that had shut for the holidays. Luckily Sophie's,
a New York style restaurant specialising in British steaks, which
one of us had already tried in the past, was open. I understand there
are no reservations, but in spite of the a huge throng of other diners,
we were seated immediately without having to undergo a wait at the
bar. The dining room, with seating for 92, is minimally decorated
in warehouse style, with expanses of bare brick walls and exposed
steel air conditioning pipes artfully draped with lightbulbs on cables,
and jazzed up on my visit with some festive decor. Simple wooden tables,
chairs and floors complete the unfussy feel. From the menu, which
includes grills, salads and various sandwiches, we ordered bloody
Marys (£5.50) and sparkling water. A brunch menu lists various
eggy concoctions, but as it was now quite late we chose from the lunch
menu instead. We'd eaten roast venison for dinner the night before,
so rather than choose a meaty treat I opted for fish and seafood.
My starter of prawn cocktail (£6.50) came suspiciously moulded
but was excellent. Large, fresh prawns and crisp, cool lettuce were
generously glazed with a creamy tangy cocktail sauce. For main course
I had Rocky's fish & chips - beer battered haddock with pea purée
and home-made tartar sauce (£10.50). The fish arrived cooked
to perfection in a thick herby beer batter. Underneath lay crisp chips
alongside a dollop of green mushy peas, full of sweet pea flavour
and unlike the grey sludge I've seen elsewhere. My companions started
with fresh Cornish crab salad, with basil, coriander and mayonnaise
(£8.95) and then had main courses of spit roasted chicken sandwich,
with vine ripened tomatoes, baby spinach, smoked back bacon, melted
montgomery and mayonnaise (£7.95). As we were a bit weary from
a late night and lots of booze, we only had water to drink. We didn't
try them, but steak lovers have a choice of 15 ounce Chateaubriand
(£29.50), 27 ounce porterhouse (£34.95), 10 ounce ribeye
(£10.95), 8 ounce fillet (£16.50), or 10 ounce contre
fillet (£15.95). Sophie's says all its meat, from farms in Scotland
or Northern Ireland, and is aged for 28 days. Customers can also buy
Sophie's Steak Sauce to take home. Website |
| Gourmet
Burger Kitchen Fulham Broadway 020 7381 4242 Fulham Broadway |
Dinner £12 ($20) |
A New Zealand twist on
this US staple, GBK is a new chain with a few branches scattered around
the capital. I took a couple of young companions as not much else in
the area appealed to their relatively undeveloped palates, and most
of the menu was familiar to them. Perched on the side of busy Fulham
Broadway with its fuming traffic, the smart but small dining room has
its French windows flung open for an airy feel, and is packed with tiny
square tables. Most were occupied, but we were shown to a couple placed
together and directly overlooking the pavement. The menu offers a wide
range of burgers, many traditional 100 per cent Aberdeen Angus Scotch
beef, but some featuring quirky additional ingredients, all around the
£6.60 mark. Those wishing to avoid beef have chicken, chorizo,
lamb, venison and even a few vegetarian options from which to choose.
Diners peruse the menu and then order food and drinks at the back bar.
I decided on a bottle of Caves de Lugny Macon Villages chardonnay (£13.95)
- probably the first I've had with a burger, but somehow the experience
merited it. Additional orders of large, chunky and crispy fries (£2)
came with a choice of dipping sauces - blue cheese, garlic, tomato.
The burgers are huge and present a challenge to even the widest of wide
mouths but though difficult to manoeuvre, my classic burger of beef,
smoky barbecue sauce and salad (£6.60), was well cooked and tasty.
I found the barbecue sauce on the sweet side, but the blue cheese sauce
for dunking chips in was loaded with tangy real cheese. My companions
tucked into burgers laden with garlic mayo, pesto and mozzarella, and
chicken satay. The white wine stood up well to the relatively fast food
assault and we were all too full to think about dessert. Website |
| Henry
J Bean's Bar & Grill King's Road Chelsea 020 7351 6996 South Kensington |
Lunch £6.60 ($10) |
I popped in here for lunch between a morning spent wandering the
new English Galleries at the V&A Museum and an afternoon in the
relative calm of Chelsea Cinema watching The Quiet American.
The place was nowhere near as busy or crowded as it can get in the
evenings when the area's Sloane Rangers pack in, so I decided to try
the food. I was glad I did, especially as I luckily managed to select
one of the luncheonette specials without realising it (although they're
clearly indicated on the menu). Inside the forbidding entrance there
is a long, dark bar, with tall round tables and stools, and decorated
with old US ads for 7-Up, milk and coke. Outside at the back is a
large beer garden, which can get busy in summer months. To the right
behind a curved screen with banquette seating is a raised platform
with lower tables for four. After ordering a cheesesurger, shoelace
fries and a mineral water from the bar, I decided to forgo the tables
along the wood floor to the front and chose one on the red and black
tiled area near the food counter, where I could keep my eye on my
belongings while I collected my order. This was after a wait of about
15 minutes, when my number appeared on the television monitor. The
large, freshly made burger was served with beef tomato slices and
sliced red onion. I further dressed it with ketchup, mustard and diced
onions. It was very good, not dissimilar to those on offer from Ed's
Easy Diner. The fries were tasty enough, although I'd looked forward
to the seasoned fries that the menu had specified, but were not available
on my visit. Not bad, considering the regular price for the burger
and fries alone would have been almost £8, and I'd visit again
to try out some of the other authentic sounding US diner style dishes,
although it all looks expensive. |
| Steph's 39 Dean Street Soho 020 7734 5976 Tottenham Court Road |
Dinner £25 ($37) |
Southern decadence mingles
with '30s deco at this Soho stalwart that has its fans in spite of the
fading decor and indifferent food. Steph herself reigns supreme and
often holds court over the cramped dining room with narrow bar to the
side, surrounded by marching pink flamingoes along the dark green walls.
The menu, which has hardly varied in years, offers burgers, cajun dishes
and other down home cooking such as fried green tomatoes. A piece of
old Soho, faded charms and all. |
| PJ's
Bar & Grill 52 Fulham Road SW3 020 7581 0025 South Kensington |
Dinner £27 ($40) |
Wood panelling, a clubby
atmosphere and lots of photographs of polo matches on the wall above
large bloom-stained mirrors remind you that this is the posh end of
the Fulham Road. Further polo bric a brac, with crossed polo mallets
and a crest are arranged above the small bar just inside the front door.
Also suspended over the bar is a propellor and shaft, together with
what looks like a vintage aircraft engine turbine. Seating is at the
front windows and off to both sides, with further seating in the upstairs
dining room and on the pavement outside. The menu is short and features
meats from the grill as well as specials, and there are about three
starters and mains which change every day. Location wise it's all over
the place with American, cajun and oriental dishes jostling for attention.
We just drank bottled mineral water and ordered prawn spring rolls (£6.95),
endive salad with roquefort and poached pear (£5.95) and duck pancakes
(£6.95) to start. There was precious little cheese or pear with my salad,
but what little I had was delicious. My colleagues enjoyed theirs, but
found the portions to be on the small side. For main course I had cajun
chicken (£11.95). This came with a medley of raw capsicums, coconut
rice and a mango salsa, which I supplemented with a portion of fries
(£2.95). The chicken was spicy, but probably a mistake as I had a mouth
ulcer, and it wasn't soothed by the salsa which was quite tart. One
colleague had the roast gressingham duck (£12.95) with red cabbage,
roast celeriac batons and blackberry sauce. I tried a forkful which
was very tasty, although he commented that some roast potatoes would
have set it off perfectly. The other tried the organic hamburger with
cheese and fried onions (£10.95), which was served with fries. We enjoyed
the ambience in this popular and busy place, which attracts a well-off
young Chelsea crowd. I can imagine it becoming a regular haunt for many
of them. However, the portions, especially the starters, could have
been bigger, and we reckoned the 15 per cent service charge was sheer
cheek. |
| Planet
Hollywood Coventry Street W1 020 7278 1000 Piccadilly Circus |
Dinner £20 ($30) |
Expecting a cheap and
nasty experience, I was pleasantly surprised at the London branch of
this film industry themed restaurant when I visited with friends and
their teenaged daughter. The downstairs dining room impressed with its
glamorous decor and busy ambience. Planet Hollywood is not as difficult
to get into these days, but the quality of the food on offer is very
high. We shared starters of Texas nachos, deep fried dough, brushed
with barbecue sauce and topped with grilled onions, smoked chicken and
monterrey jack / cheddar mixed cheese, and pizza bread, delicious slices
brushed with garlic butter, parmesan cheese, mozzarella and basil, topped
with chopped plum tomatoes and herbed olive oil. Main courses included
hamburger, served on a poppy seed bun with lettuce, tomato and red onions,
and I had baby-back ribs in tangy barbecue sauce. Served with fries,
these were filling and didn't leave much room for desserts. The range
of memorabilia provides a point of interest when the conversations lags,
although it isn't easy to read the descriptions from the tables. On
other visits I've tried the first floor snackbar, which can get rather
hectic. |
| Arkansas
Cafe Unit 12 Old Spitalfields Market E1 020 7377 6999 Liverpool Street |
Lunch £10 ($15) |
Freshly barbecued lamb
and beef burgers, ribs and steaks are available al fresco at this cheap
and cheerful open venue which is part of a food village that actually
overlooks the market area. Bubba the chef takes and cooks the orders
while you sit at the tables and watch market life pass you by, especially
on Sunday lunchtimes, which seem to attract some of the oddest looking
of the area's denizens. Good for a break either before of after you
browse the market stalls which include organic veg, homemade breads,
vintage clothing, antique and stylish modern furniture and freshly squeezed
fruit cocktails. If burgers aren't your thing the food village offers
a range of world cuisines. |
| Joe
Allen 13 Exeter Street 020 7836 0651 Covent Garden |
Dinner £30 ($45) |
Celebrity spotting is
part of the action at this Californian style basement eatery in Covent
Garden that actually offers a range of cuisines. We had upmarket burgers,
which were delicious. |
| Navajo
Joe 34 King Street 020 7240 4008 Covent Garden |
Lunch £10 ($15) |
Loud venue in Covent Garden
that attracts a mainly local after-office crowd for skillfully-made
cocktails prepared by the showy staff. Music levels not so intrusive
at lunchtime, but crank up later to make conversation impossible without
shouting. Unfortunately the food, being very average, didn't get shouted
about. |
| TGI
Friday's 6 Bedford Street 020 7379 0585 Leicester Square |
Dinner £25 ($40) |
Frenetic atmosphere stoked
by relentlessly cheery staff make this the place to come for a lively
night out. Wildly popular in its central Covent Garden location, there
are long waits - in the expensive bar area - for tables. The food is
big and includes burgers, fries, ribs, grills and Tex Mex. Not the place
for a quiet meal, and expensive for what you get. |
| Rainforest Shaftesbury Avenue 020 7434 3111 Piccadilly Circus |
Dinner £20 ($30) |
New, chaotic, jungle-themed
venue in the West End aimed squarely at kids. Eco-friendly - all the
animals are mechanical apart from a few guest parrots at the entrance.
Inside jungle sounds boom, screech and chatter, and several water features
keep the atmosphere rainforest damp. Downstairs in the labyrinthine
dining room on several levels, regular thunder storms make for that
authentic jungle ambience. Nice to see a kid's menu venturing further
than burgers and fries - a Caribbean flavour is evident with big, tasty
portions and a variety of vegetable juice cocktails. The gift shop is
chaotic and disappointing, and can make the whole experience an expensive
one. |
| Ed's
Easy Diner King's Road 020 7352 1956 South Kensington |
Dinner £9 ($13) |
You know how, about half
an hour after you've eaten at McDonalds, you get that heavy feeling
in your stomach and wish you hadn't? Well, learn to love burgers again
at Ed's. This re-incarnation of the '50s American diner celebrates fast
food with a swing. The menu includes burgers with Swiss, American or
Cheddar cheese, hotdogs, bowls of big fries smothered in potent chilli,
wet fries and fries with cheese. Washed down with cool beer or cola,
they beat anything on offer from by Ronald & Co. And I should know
- I've worked in McDonalds. Served up by relentlessly cheerful staff
to the accompaniment of too-loud 50s and 60s rock music. Outlets also
at Old Compton Street in Soho and in the Trocadero, Piccadilly Circus. |
| Prices are per head for two-three courses, sharing a bottle of wine or a beer or two where appropriate | ||
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