Mission
Wandsworth Bridge Road
020 7736 3322
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Fulham
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Dinner
£25 ($35)

One of my favourite eating spots in which food excelled for a while, Mission fell from favour when the regular chef left and the quality of food plummeted. Now a new chef, originating from oriental parts but having spent most of his life in the UK, has come in and the food has taken a turn for the better, though the cuisine is distinctly oriental in flavour. The decor is pretty much unchanged from earlier visits, with a pale green painted main wall, wooden floor, and a narrow bar area under a wrought iron rack for glasses suspended from the ceiling. Large windows at the front overlook a small patio with additional seating. At the back of the main room and down a step or two is another smaller dining room. Apart from the menu, the main change seems to be the slatted wooden chairs, which were comfortable in spite of their appearance. We had chargrilled tiger prawns, baby squid and green lip mussels in lime and ginger with singapore noodles (£4.50), spiced lamb and cashew kebabs, thyme marinade, caramelised courgettes, shallots, tomatoes and cucumber raita (£4.95), and for main course, sizzling aromatic scotch beef fillet and oyster mushrooms, walnuts and spring onions with egg fried rice (£8.95), and grilled honey blackened duck breast with soba noodles, chilli-pepper greens and orange tamarind sauce (£8.95). My kebabs were mild but nicely flavoured and the beef was succulent but not overpowered by spices, while the duck was excellent. A bottle of Nottage Hill cabernet shiraz (£16.50) coped well with both dishes. A couple of G&Ts at the bar before the meal bumped up the bill a notch. The food was generally well cooked and tasty, and the place busy with locals on a Friday evening. Nice to have a good local place to visit again.top of page

Champor-champor
62 Weston Street
SE1
020 7403 4600
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London Bridge
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Dinner
£25 ($37)
Friends urged me to come to Champor-champor with them to sample the amazing array of flavours on offer, so I took them up on the offer as we celebrated the return of a good friend from New York. Owned and managed by magazine editor Charles Tyler and chef Adu Amran Hassan, Champor-champor, a Malay expression meaning 'mix and match', is like a bright little jewel nestling in the shadow of nearby Guy's Hospital. Colour assaults the eye as soon as you walk in the tiny dining room. The walls are azure, yellow, green, the floor painted cement. The windows are hung with multicoloured shades. The tables are done out in a riot of styles. Based on the owners' original restaurant in Langkawi, Malaysia, the exotic decor features tribal masks and artworks, and the bohemian theme is carried through to the furniture - our table had two ornate silvered chairs and a large iron candlestick - and the settings of wooden platters, metal chopsticks and huge ceramic bowls. The food reflects a mix of Asian cuisines and the taste is as lively as the colour scheme. Before our meal we were treated to canapés - a spoonful each of spicy crab meat and little samosas, along with a delicate wafer and toasted fruit bread, which I dipped into a peppery oil. The set price menu - £19 for two courses and £22.50 for three - is short yet still able to offer vegetarian options. Staples such as pork and beef had been left out in favour of more unusual selections, such as ostrich and cobra. To drink we chose the house white wine from France and to start I had green mussels and sweet potato sushi, served with lime and arak madu dips. The mussels were plentiful, huge and tender, and the dips fairly zinged on the palate. My companions enjoyed their Indonesian fruit and tofu rojak with curry leaves, chicken satay with peanut sauce served with steamed idli bread, and Kaswari serunding salad of ostrich meat cooked with coriander and cumin. Between courses, one of us had an inter-course granita of lemon grass (£2 supplement), which we all tried. Creamier than a sorbet, this was bursting with flavour and made we wish I'd ordered the lime and stem ginger one for myself. For main course I chose calamari mee bandung, the meat served in a rich, sweet-spicy gravy over a bed of noodles and choi sum topped off with soft boiled quail eggs. The calamari, the tenderest I'd ever tasted, lived up to its description on the menu. The others had 'vegetarian contrasts' of blue and yellow rice served with mung bean and vegetable curry and beansprout urap, spiced duck leg slow-cooked in Chinese plum wine and shallot compote and served with herb rice, and chicken curry. After a dessert for one of my companions, a tropical fruit platter with raspberry and rose sorbet of which I had just a tantalising taste, we finished with espressos and digestivs including armagnac (£4.50) for me and calvados (£3.50). According to owner Charles, who oversaw front of house operations, it was the first day of the new menu, which changes every two months. We so enjoyed the wonderful intensity and variety of flavours and a setting that was intimate without being cramped, I'm sure it won't be long before a return visit Champor-champor richly deserves. Web sitetop of page
Jim Thompson's Oriental Bar Restaurant & Bazaar
617 King's Road
SW6
020 7731 0999
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Fulham Broadway
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Dinner
£20 ($30)
Winner of the 1998 Hotel & Caterer CATEY bar-restaurant of the year award. Originally a large Victorian boozer, one of many in the area previously doing poor business apart from Chelsea match days, Jim Thompson's has been in the vanguard of the revival of the King's Road's unfashionable end. Taking the theme of oriental bazaar, JT runs with it to recreate a scene worthy of Bangkok in the days of the silk trade, which is when the real JT himself made his fortune. The front bar is still recognisable beneath a crusting of Far Eastern bric-a-brac, much of which is also for sale to customers. Meanwhile, in the large restaurant at the back, diners pick and mix from a broad array of cuisine from almost every land east of Burma, served by waiting staff dressed in traditional sarongs. Thronged with locals most evenings, booking is advised. I was highly impressed by JT's on my first visit shortly after it opened, but a second visit left a bad taste. After the starters, only one main course was brought to the table, at which point I was commentsrmed that my choice of dinner was no longer available. I re-ordered while my companion finished his meal. The initial high standards of cuisine had also slipped with most of the dishes we ordered being rather greasy and tasteless. A third visit more recently revealed that this place is trading successfully on its reputation, but little else, as the food was again greasy and indifferent. Other outlet at Upper Richmond Road, Putney, SW15.top of page
Nusa Dua
Dean Street
Soho
020 7437 3559
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Tottenham Court Road
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Lunch
£25 ($40)
Tasty spicy food in this colourful Indonesian restaurant includes rijsttafel. Bargain lunch deals are available. For some reason on my visit the rice was served cold.top of page
Melati
Great Windmill Street
Soho
020 7437 2745
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Piccadilly Circus
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Lunch
£25 ($40)
Once this small family-run Indonesian restaurant had oilcloths on the tables and lino floors, but the service was friendly, the food excellent and a real bargain. Then some years ago it had a refit and some powerful air conditioning installed. I had to ask for it to be turned lower as it was rapidly cooling the food on my plate. But it still offers a great deal, in particular my favourite dessert drink - cendol, which contains coconut milk, syrup and little green lumps of jelly. Looks revolting but tastes divine.top of page
Prices are per head for two-three courses, sharing a bottle of wine or a beer or two where appropriate
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