Golden Dragon Gerrard Street Soho 020 7734 2763 Leicester Square	Dinner £20 ($38)	We visited the Golden Dragon in haste only after discovering that our recent favourite nearby had unexpectedly closed down (So China, previously Aaura). It's another largish bright place on Chinatown's main street and after entering we were quickly seated in the slightly scruffy ground floor dining room. There was quite a breeze off the air-conditioning and though the waiter was very helpful and turned it down at our request, it didn't really feel like anything had changed. We ordered crispy duck pancakes to start, which were very good, and then shared dishes of barbecued pork, stir fried vegetables, Singapore noodles, egg fried rice, sweet and sour chicken, chicken curry, prawns in batter and sizzling fillet steak in ginger and spring sauce. As well as a jug of water, a couple of my companions shared a bottle of Matteus Rose wine - possibly the first time I've seen this ordered in a restaurant. The main dishes were tasty enough without being outstanding while service was efficient though generally unsmiling and impersonal, which I don't really mind as overweening attention gives me the creeps. Very much an average Chinatown dining experience.
New Culture Revolution King's Road Chelsea 020 7352 9281 South Kensington	Dinner £12 ($18)	New Culture Revolution is one of a small chain of restaurants specialising in Chinese style noodle dishes. The plain dining room features wooden floor, tables and chairs, and the large front window offers a view of the busy King's Road and the Bluebird restaurant opposite. I found the food filling though bland compared with the similar Japanese style noodle chain, Wagamama, and the 'eating ethic' printed on the menu just as pretentious. Usually crowded by the Chelsea trustafarian set taking and making calls on their mobile phones. If you like your noodles tasty, go elsewhere.
Chuen Cheng Ku 17 Wardour Street 020 7437 1398 Piccadilly Circus	Lunch £12 ($18)	On a Sunday morning you have to wait for a table at this huge, busy restaurant on the edge of central Chinatown which attracts crowds of diners on the hunt for dim sum served from heated trolleys. Good selection on offer, including char siu bau (steamed buns with barbecued pork), cheung fun (prawns wrapped in a gelatinous steamed rice flour paste), paper wrapped prawns, steamed minced pork and prawn dumplings, glutinous rice in lotus leaf and much more. If you find something you like, however, re-ordering is almost impossible as not all trolleys contain the same selection and it can be difficult to catch the waiter's eye. Copious pots of jasmine tea help wash it all down. Normally they don't accept bookings, although they made an exception when I wanted to have my birthday lunch one Sunday. Most of my party arrived very late, leaving me and a couple of red-faced guests occupying a table for 12 as people queued outside. On later visits the experience was spoiled by brusque service, and the décor was notably faded and grimy.
Emperor King's Road 020 7823 3368 South Kensington	Dinner £20 ($30)	A large venue along a short strip of restaurants about a mile down the King's Road, with separate bar area, the Emperor offers traditional chinese treats. I went early on a weekend evening and was enjoying the space and emptiness until the table next to mine was taken by two very loud diners. The food was competent rather than remarkable.
Joy King Lau 3 Leicester Street 020 7437 1133 Leicester Square	Lunch £12 ($18)	This smallish, tidy venue between Chinatown and Leicester Square became a favourite for dim sum after the Cheug Chen Ku magic started to wear off. It doesn't have the novelty value of heated trolleys, but the food seems fresher for not having circuited the dining room several times. The usual dim sum, excellently done, plus chicken's feet in black bean sauce (don't forget to spit out the toenails!).
Mr Kong 21 Lisle Street 020 7437 7341 Leicester Square	Dinner £20 ($30)	Chinatown venue apparently noted for the quality and extent of its cuisine, although my meal here didn't seem much different from others I've had in the area.
Harbour City Restaurant 46 Gerrard Street 020 7439 7859 Leicester Square	Dinner £20 ($30)	Large Chinatown venue with a reputation for good dim sum. I tried one of the set menu feasts, which was very satisfying, although some of the starters were slightly greasy. My aromatic duck was excellent, however. The menu doesn't vary much from that offered by others in the area.
Wong Kei 41-43 Wardour Street 020 7437 6833 Leicester Square	Dinner £20 ($30)	The service is notoriously surly, but people still love to come here to savour the experience, if not the food. My most recent visits were late evening affairs after the pub with colleagues from work, so we weren't too fussy. If I remember correctly we had some very ordinary food in low-grade surroundings.
Poons Leicester Street Leicester Square 020 7437 1528 Leicester Square	Dinner £30 ($45)	Buzzing Chinatown restaurant offering some of the tastiest food in the West End. Begin by ordering heaps from the large hors d'oeuvre menu - soft-shelled crabs, salt and pepper ribs, dumplings, squid and scallops all delicious, although I've learned to avoid the oysters in batter, follow with aromatic crispy duck pancakes, then try and fit in a main course afterward (you won't!). Specially-bottled French wine surprisingly palatable.
Formosa Fulham Road Chelsea 020 7381 0735 Fulham Broadway	Dinner £10 ($15)	Nothing remarkable about this typical chinese restaurant in the ground floor of a tower block which offers the usual suspects from a very traditional western style menu.
Gallery Rendezvous Beak Street Soho 020 7734 0445 Oxford Circus	Lunch £20 ($30)	Supposedly a star in its heydey, there's nothing much left to distinguish this Soho chinese apart from some starters of cold meats that I haven't noticed elsewhere, and relatively friendly service.
China Kitchen Kenway Street 020 7370 2533 Earls Court	Dinner £25 ($40)	Pleasant if antiseptic restaurant tucked away near the Earl's Court Road. In both cost and quality of menu typical of many in London.
Prices are per head for two-three courses, sharing a bottle of wine or a beer or two where appropriate
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