Munch
Habitat
King's Road
020 7351 1211
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Sloane Square
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new
Lunch
£10 ($18)
After a wintery Sunday morning taking photographs of the river, I decided to have lunch in the Chelsea branch of Habitat. The home decor store has been on this site, previously a Gaumont cinema, since 1973, and the front of the first floor has been a café for about as long - I can remember eating here in 1977. A bright, high ceilinged room with large windows overlooking the King's Road, the café has a restul, laid back atmosphere with brown leather banquettes, bright green table tops, brown plywood and tubular metal chairs and funky porcupine-like light fittings adding to the informal ambience. There is a printed menu, but I ordered from the blackboard opposite the serving station. This pairs each dish with a matching glass of wine. I had treacle cured bacon and piccalilli sandwich (£6.25) and a glass of Gamay Levin (£3.50). The bacon was served in a toasted ciabatta roll and a tiny dish of homemade fruity piccalilli, while the wine packed lots of body but was slightly chilly. Diners, mostly shoppers and locals with their Sunday papers, also had a choice of pan-fried salmon, braised fennel and tomato cassoulet, chicken and apricot casserole and mushroom risotto.

The Troubadour
Old Brompton Road
020 7370 1434
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Earl's Court

Lunch
£7 ($14)

Famous café over the Troubador Club, where apparently Bob Dylan, Jimi Hendrix and Joni Mitchel have played. Comfortably shabby, with worn wooden floors, marble topped tables, wooden stools and wall mounted benches. We squeezed into a space at the window and ordered a couple of 'Lady Mucks' - a toasted muffin with two poached eggs and smoked salmon, coffee and English breakfast tea. My cappuccino was very tasty with a firm head of froth, and the eggs delicious. According to the menu, no GM foods are used. The place is renowned for poetry and music, and this theme is carried through to the decor which includes mandolins, lutes and other musical instruments, as well as vinyl discs and record covers - the one behind me was of folk singer Chris Barber, pictured sitting outside the Troubador. Websitetop of page

Caffé Nero
High Holborn
branches all over
Breakfast
£3 (($5)
The coffee from this Italian style chain of cafes is very good. With many ingredients shipped from Italy, the range of products is wide, from the usual coffees with skimmed and soya options, sandwiches, breakfast goods including muffins and croissants, paninis, tarts and cakes, sandwiches made with various types of Mediterranean bread and foccacia and blended fruit juices, to tempting Italian chocolates. Also does salads, and the soups are from SoupWorks, which until about 2002 ran an independent chain of London soup shops. Websitetop of page
Starbucks
King's Road
branches all over
Breakfast
£3 ($5)

Soulless and ubiquitous chain, but which made the smart move of opening one of their earliest outlets on the King's Road, thus ensuring an aspirational cachet. This branch has a bright paint job both outside and in and benefits from large picture windows - which draws shoppers on the busy King's Road. However, the other branches seem gloomy by comparison. Coffee is inferior to what's available from the other chains. The iced frappuccino coffees are oddly flavoured, while cakes and cheesecakes are rather dry and the sandwiches not the freshest. Website top of page

 

 

Costa Coffee
branches all over
Breakfast
£3 ($5)
Founded in the early '70s by Italians, Costa is now the UK's biggest chain of branded coffee shops and has outlets in bookstores, London Eye, and other unlikely locations including hospitals, hotels and even a few branches of Abbey National building society. Coffee is good and the almond croissants are very wicked. Websitetop of page
Crivelii's Garden
The National Gallery
Trafalgar Square
020 7747 2896
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Charing Cross
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Lunch £10 ($15)

Lunch overlooking the recently re-designed Trafalgar Square sounded like the perfect relief from driving wind and rain on a Saturday afternoon, but Crivelli's Garden failed to impress. The entrance is wide and deserted apart from a couple of tall tables with menus, provides no clue for visitors whether to wait or take a table. Eventually one of the waiters said that we could find our own seats for the café area, or go through to the restaurant proper which is screened off from the cafe by a row of plants. All the window tables were taken, so we sat next to the waiters' station and studied the menu, which included snacks, sandwiches, pasta and salad dishes, pastries and coffee. The salads and pasta also feature on the restaurant menu. The waitress eventually appeared after a lengthy wait, but didn't know if the soup of the day was homemade or not, so I played safe and ordered grilled chicken, mozarella and rocket salad with sun-dried tomato and bruschetta (£8), while my companion opted for smoked salmon salad (£9.50). We waited at least half an hour before our food arrived, and several parties near us who'd been waiting for service got up and left. My plate was hot, the salad was blandly dressed, and I would also have liked more of the thin slivers of sun-dried tomato, but the chicken breast had been freshly grilled and was quite tasty. The salad that arrived with the smoked salmon was a huge pile of rocket, endive, radicchio leaves dressed only in a tasteless olive oil, and a few green olives. As we finished we noticed that the diner next to us, who was clearly in the know, asked the waitress to bring some balsamic vinegar and oil to do the job herself. A large bottle of mineral water at £4 completed our lunch. Although one curved wall is lined with glass, the room seems dingy, and the red carpet around us was covered in crumbs and what looked like dog hairs. Apart from the filthy carpet, decor is modern and understated with dark wood tables placed quite close together and dark wood chairs with chrome legs. There aren't many venues offering views of Nelson's column, but in Crivelli's Garden the food is mediocre and the service is verging on the comatose and could do with a huge improvement, so the experience underwhelms, unlike the artworks on display in the galleries.top of page

Top Foor restaurant
Peter Jones
Sloane Square
020 7730 3434
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Sloane Square
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new
Lunch
£7 ($10)

Part of the recent refurbishment of the Peter Jones department store in Sloane Sqare, the new top floor café offers views on one side of the sales floors through the large central atrium, while on the other diners can gaze over Kensington's rooftops and museums from picture windows. Tables next to the windows are at a premium, but even on a busy Saturday lunchtime during the New Year sales, we could have wangled one had we felt inclined. The fully licensed self service café offers cold platters and hot meals, as well as sandwiches and beverages from bottles of wine to freshly brewed cappuccino. According to the John Lewis website the chefs will also cook dishes to order. We were looking for healthy options and chose crayfish and avocado open sandwich (£5.50) and Cesar salad (£5.50), together with sparkling Llanllyr bottled water (£1.65). Neither dish was well seasoned and only the addition of salt relieved their blandness. The salad dressing had been applied too early and wilted the leaves to the extent that the bottom of the dish was awash with water. My sandwich dressing was mostly avocado and not much crayfish, and could have done with something to spice it up a bit such as paprika or chilli. The dining room, arranged round the atrium, is bright and airy, while the slinky elevators, white pillars and large shiny floor tiles, frosted glass tables, and smart aluminium and brown leather chairs imbue a modern, clean atmosphere, while broad canvasses depicting flowers in vases and fruit add a bright splash of colour. The food is a let down, and expensive for what it is, but the views and ambience raise it above some of the street level cafés nearby.top of page

Star Café
Great Chapel Street
020 7437 8778
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Tottenham Court Road
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Lunch
£2 ($3)

We just had time to drop by this Soho stalwart, which opens only for breakfast and lunch, for a pre-Christmas cup of tea and a mince pie, though way in the past I've dined here on a more regular basis. Currently the menu features breakfasts of eggs benedict, kedgeree, and various fry ups, and lunches of pasta, salads, grills, baguettes and a range of hot dishes. The walls of the ground floor dining room are covered by an astounding display of ancient boards advertising long gone goods, from Spratts dog pills to petrol and cigarettes. Our mugs of tea were strong and oddly flavoured, and the mince pies were evidently from a store bought packet, but we ignored the short comings of the fare and soaked up the Star's atmosphere. Downstairs is the rather grotty looking kitchen, a damp low vaulted room that provides seating for additional diners, and a very smelly toilet. Could clean up its act a bit. Websitetop of page

New Piccadilly Café
Denman Street
020 7437 8530
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Piccadilly Circus
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new
Lunch
£6 ($9)
One of the few old cafés left in the area, the New Piccadilly stands apart from the chains that have swamped Soho, and has attained honorary 'formica palace' status on the Classic Cafes website. In spite of the passage of time and the influx of the new, the café retains many of its original features, from the laminated menus to the '50s era yellow swirly formica table tops. This is set off by bright yellow and grey formica walls, red banquette seating, red conical light fittings and ceiling fans, and waiters in white uniforms bustle back and forth between the booth seats and the bar, the back of which is lined with hundreds of postcards. The fare on offer also seems left over from a byegone era. We ordered cod with chips, two of us choosing peas and one opting for the beans, as well as a cup of tea each. Coke was served in a wine glass. The ketchup is an unknown brand, and the peas were on the grey side, but the meal was tasty and filling enough for £5. Denman Street is a quiet little street just behind Piccadilly, but lots of other diners have obviously discovered the New Piccadilly's charms. However, even the healthy trade I noticed on my latest visit (December 2003) might not be enough to keep it away from the developers' clutches much longer.top of page
Patisserie Valerie
Marylebone High Street
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Baker Street
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Lunch
£22 ($30)

Founded in 1921 by Monsieur Sagne from Verlay, Switzerland, this famous patisserie with its Palladian style murals joined the Valerie group in May 1993. I've snacked here before occasionally, but not lunched. The display in the front window seems to cater more for the sweet toothed as there was a cornucopia of fancy chocolate cakes but I could see no savouries. Inside, an ornamental garden mural complete with balustrades completely covers the walls of both dining rooms, while in the front room an elaborate chandelier takes pride of place in the centre of the ceiling. The counter was busy with patrons queuing for pastries to take away and most of the tables were occupied, but we found a spare space in the front room to squeeze into. I tried the butterfly grilled prawns (£8.25) which arrived with half an avocado and a salad of leaves and cherry tomatoes, but the leaves were dressed but also quite sodden and there were only five small rather mushy prawns. The fries that I'd ordered (£2.50) were crisp but had a strange oily flavour tinged with fish. Ketchup smothered the odd taste, and a glass of chilled French chardonnay (£3.25) also helped. My dining companion fared better with chicken and bacon salad (£7.50), accompanied by another half an avocado, and he said it was very tasty. Mineral water (£2.00 for a medium size bottle) completed our lunch. The pastries make this place worth a visit, service was efficient and the surroundings quite unique, but the food is hit or miss. Websitetop of page

West Cornwall Pasty Co
King's Road
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Sloane Square

new
Lunch
£4.30 ($7)

Previously an ice-cream parlour and more recently a coffee chain outlet, the West Cornwall Pasty Co is almost directly across the King's Road from Marks & Spencer. The pavement café-style pie shop offers a small range of traditional and gourmet Cornish pasties - a circle of short crust pastry wrapped round a filling of meat or veg, which usually includes potato, onion and swede, to form a half moon shape with a crimped edge. In olden days, miners in Cornwall's tin mines ate the filling and some pastry and threw away the crimped crust , which they had held in their contaminated hands. The pasties here are made in Cornwall and cooked on the premises, which also features a basement bar. In the warm mid-October sunshine, we sampled a steak and Guinness pie as well as the bacon and cheese (about £2.70 each). I also had a half pint of Tribute ale from the small range of Cornish beers on offer. I assumed the £2.60 on the menu was for a bottle, but was pleasantly surprised both by the fact that this was the price per pint, and the quality of the beer which was cool, malty and hoppy. The pies were warm but not too hot to hold, with light but chewy golden pastry, while the filling included small, firm slices of potato and tender chunks of meat with a gravy full of flavour. Just enough for a quick bite for not too much outlay, and in my opinion a winner. Bacon rolls and a few other food items, soft drinks and coffee are also available, and there are other branches in Covent Garden and The Strand.top of page

Brew House Café
Kenwood House
Hampstead Heath
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Hampstead
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Lunch
£7 ($10)
The Brew House Café is located to one side of the grand Robert Adam remodelled Kenwood House, which overlooks a sweep of terraced lawn on the north side of the heath, also known as the Iveagh Bequest. Through a passageway is the self-service area where you can choose from a small range of hot homemade food and other prepared meals, as well as sandwiches and cakes, and soft drinks and wine by the quarter bottle. The dining area at the front is light and airy, with a high ceiling, and framed paintings of architectural details. Scrubbed pine wooden tables and chairs occupy most of the flagged floor space, but there is a large garden terrace outside which benefits from the afternoon sun. We ordered vegetable soup, which came with a hunk of crusty bread at £3.50, and marinated pepper and goat's cheese salad (£5.50). The soup was hearty and tasty, and the salad crisp and accompanied by a smooth dressing. We finished with a cappuccino and black coffee, and shared a pastry (£4.40). Also available are scones with cream. The Brew House Café is open all year and, according to Time Out, its breakfasts are 'exceptional'.top of page

Sienna Café
Selfridges
Oxford Street
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Bond Street
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new

Lunch
£7.50 ($10)
My visit was early lunchtime on the Tuesday after Easter and the store wasn't too busy during the holiday period, so I found a table easily. The dark wood chairs and tables are located in a cluster among the interior decor department on the lower ground level, which includes inflatable furniture, framed posters, '30s style dresses and jewellery. Well-dressed shoppers drift through and pause to discuss the possibility of stopping for a rest. Nearby I noticed a display for Kartell Maui chairs from Italy, which I'd bought elsewhere at half the price for my new kitchen at home. I ordered a prawn baguette (£4.95) and cafe mocha (£2.20). The coffee was chocolaty, sweet and hot, but the baguette was chilled, small and uninteresting looking, and had a firmness that indicated it had only moments before been liberated from a tight plastic wrapping. The filling was tasty but mean, and there was no garnish apart from a trace of wilted salad inside. Rather poor I thought for nearly £5. At that price I would have expected something freshly prepared, or at least not tightly wrapped. All the filled baguettes were the same price so the cheese one appeared particularly bad value. The café is convenient if you're in the store and need to sit down. Alternatives are quite a walk away - on Oxford Street there's a Starbucks and there are several dodgy looking and probably expensive independents around, too.top of page
Café Brown
New Row
Covent Garden
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Leicester Square

Lunch
£7 ($10)
There's a lot of choice for peckish office workers and theatregoers in this partly pedestrianised street just off St Martin's Lane, but Café Brown shines out. Its speciality is grilled sandwiches on focaccia or ciabatta, all cooked to order on the tiny griddle in the front window. Among my favourites are the excellent bacon and mozzarella with generous rashers of ham and chunks of cheese, and the most delicious sausage, mushroom and cheese melt sandwiches. They're not cheap compared with the likes of Prêt, but large, scrumptious and filling. I used to work round the corner and it took willpower to reserve a visit for a special treat, but catching the waft of grilling bacon as I passed by usually undid me. They also do both pecan and almond cakes which, although tasty, are on the dry side. I usually order my sandwich to take away as the cramped little tables rapidly fill up at lunchtime. Get there early to beat the rush.top of page
Max Brenner at Harrods
2nd floor
Harrods
020 7730 1234
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Knightsbridge
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Lunch
£9 ($13)
There are more places to eat in Harrods than ever before and they're a vital development, even if you just need to take a break from the frantic retail therapy going on all around you. However, they're invariably packed so be prepared to negotiate long queues. They're also incredibly expensive - at the café overlooking one of the ground floor food halls I baulked at the idea of paying £10 and more for a sandwich. Max Brenner is slightly more reasonable and specialises in chocolate. The location feels odd, but I welcomed the chance to sit down. We ordered an Italian hot chocolate, an Ecuador Orange chocolate (both £3.25), and shared a chef's sandwich (chicken and avocado, served with green leaf garnish and potato chips - £7.95) and a brownie (£2.50). The sandwich was good, although I wasn't aware of an orange flavour to my drink. The brownie was sweet and sticky. There's a broad choice of hot and cold chocolate drinks, and diners can also treat themselves to chocolate sweets and other cocoa-based delights. Service is brisk and efficient, although seating is a little cramped. Some tall chairs are available for diners to sit at the counter. If you're hungry but don't need to rest at the same time, you'd find better value by purchasing one of the delicious looking filled rolls (£3-5) in the deli food hall and eating it outside the store.top of page
Patisserie Valerie
Russell Street
Covent Garden
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Covent Garden
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Brunch
£8 ($12)
Not as interesting as the Old Compton Street branch, nor as glossy as the Brompton Road one, this outlet competes for custom with a Starbucks and a Belushi's snack bar next door. Even though it was busy early on a filthy wet Sunday afternoon, we pushed to the back to find a table for two. The coffee, by Illy, was an improvement on the stuff I used to drink in Soho, although my turkey and ham toasted club sandwich (£5.50) didn't inspire with its thin sliced-loaf granary bread and a single, wafer-thin sheet of each meat submerged beneath a cloying mayonnaise. The salad garnish was fresher than most I've experienced, but the curiously coffee-coloured dressing was hard to get out of the bottle, and didn't impart much flavour. My companion fared better with a large toasted bagel well loaded with smoked salmon and cream cheese (£5.50). Slightly above average overall than the other local tourist traps.top of page
Amandine
Wandsworth Bridge Road
SW6
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Parsons Green
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Lunch
£4 ($6)
French cafe and bakery local to where I live. The fresh bread, ranging from walnut loaves to baguettes, is the best thing about it. Croques Monsieurs, slices of pizza and quiche (defrosted on a recent occasion - ugh!) are basic, and the cakes are quite good but on the expensive side. The usual croissants and other breakfast goods are all present and delicious. There is a small seating area at the front and it's nice to eat and watch the traffic roar past.top of page
Patisserie Valerie
Old Compton Street
Soho
020 7437 3466
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Tottenham Court Road
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Breakfast, brunch
£5 ($8)
The original cafe in a chain of five or so around central London, this one is located on gay Old Compton Street and is usually difficult to get into, not least because of the crush of shoppers near the entrance. Great for breakfast, with baskets of large, buttery croissants ready and waiting on the tables, washed down with weakish coffee. Croque Monsieur and other continental snacks available, as well as exquisite cakes wrapped in layers of chocolate, and little spinach or salmon quiches. Branches also in Covent Garden, Brompton Road near Harrods and Marylebone.top of page
Prêt A Manger
branches all over
020 7437 6007
Brunch
£4 ($6)
A chain that has grown exponentially over the past three or four years, Prêt - whose slogan reads 'passionate about food' - is one of the best, most popular and ubiquitous places for a filling sandwich or snack. Eat in, sit outside (some outlets), take to the local square or back to the office. Not the strongest of coffee in the morning, but service is quick and there's no complaints at 110p a cup (one size only, up from 99p January 2000). Freshly baked hot filled croissants (my favourite is the scrambled egg with crispy bacon) or danishes take away the early hunger pangs. Recently added are muffins, including chocolate, berry and marmalade. Later you can choose from a wide range of fresh sandwiches, made and packaged on the premises, which although not always the cheapest are filling and contain top quality ingredients on granary-style or rye bread. Some overdo the mayo, others are overpowered by cucumber and those with avocado can be cloying, but generally they're far and away better than most more traditional sandwich bars. Top value is the free range egg mayonnaise at 99p. Vastly inferior versions at a typical motorway cafe would set you back more than twice the price. Also available are filled pitta wraps, salad boxes, filled baguettes, sushi boxes that can be bland, and pasta salads that are on the dry side. Bottled fresh fruit juices and smoothies and bottled water complete the bill of fare. Has rapidly earned its place on the London food map. Note Prêt's claim to your heart if not your stomach - if sandwiches don't sell out each day they give them away rather than compromise standards (at least that's what it says on the napkins).top of page
Maison Bertaux
28 Greek Street
W1
020 7437 6007
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Leicester Square
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Lunch
£6 ($9)
Excellent coffee and pastries in this tiny café with very basic décor in both the ground floor and upstairs rooms. Good place to while away a lazy afternoon, slightly out of sight of the main Old Compton Street drag.top of page
Prices are per head for two-three courses, sharing a bottle of wine or a beer or two where appropriate
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